Thailand > Ayutthaya > Floating Market

The Floating Tourist Trap?

Most of the tripadvisor community swears the Ayutthaya Floating Market is a horrible tourist trap.

Just before lunch time in the lovely rainy season, however, it was tourist free.  Instead, it was mostly empty and the few busy parts were filled with Thai locals.

Part of the 'big let-down' is that tourists are expecting a traditional Thai floating market like the one in Bangkok.  This is definitely nothing like Bangkok.  Is it supposed to be?  I don't know.


The Ayutthaya floating market is small but colorful.  To get to the floating portion, you walk through a strange (for westerners) area that is something like a county fair, a garden park, an outdoor strip-mall and a church had a baby.  Incidentally, there are also plastic babies.  And ducks.


Out front, there are a few sundry vendors, the majority of whom sell Thai lottery tickets and offerings for the many Buddha and monk statues inhabiting the premises. 


Some of the figures talk, asking for donations in Thai and shakily moving their bowls up and down.  Or like the skeleton on the right, giving a traditional Thai greeting ("Sawadee krap") and attempting to touch his robotic hands to his plastic forehead.


There are an endless number of places to make donations, all of which have extensive signage in Thai.  That's got to be for the tourists, eh Watson?


All the negativity about this place really irks me because while I was there, I mostly saw Thai locals worshiping and paying respects.  I only stopped here to have lunch and, for that purpose, I recommend it.  It was unique, fun and culturally interesting.  (Plus cheap with surprisingly nice bathrooms - yes!) 


Down a few shoddily nailed together planks is a floating pavilion, which small vendor boats line up against.  As you peruse the food selection, dishes are prepared, grilled, sauteed and sold all from the small boats right in front of you.

Floating Market Food Vendors, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Source: www.photos-thailand.com/ayutthaya/

A wide variety of traditional and local Thai foods are offered, as well as a few dishes from neighboring countries.  Most of the food is 'street fare' style, perfect for getting to know the flavors of the region without spending a fortune. 

One of the many food vendors, Floating Market, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Source: Travel & Leisure Asia Blog

There is lunch available for the fish too.  Except the fish are a little more aggressive about getting their rainbow treats than I was about sampling the local fare.


Above the rickety boardwalks and clinking of cookware, nestled in a garden to the side of the carnival-mall-park-church area, there is a beautifully well-kept temple.  From the surrounding promenade, you can hear worshipers and monks inside.


Naturally, my favorite part of the Ayutthaya floating market was neither the floating nor the market; it was this little traditional architecture gem.


Just because you're a tourist and have a bland experience somewhere (because you expected Ayutthaya to be like Bangkok), doesn't mean the place is 'horrible' and the locals 'built it to trap you'.  This little red-roofed temple has been here awhile.  And the Thai signage probably doesn't have a lot to do with you either.

Maybe you're a tourist.  Maybe you're an unhappy tourist.  But some places just have their own personality.  The rest of the world isn't always what you expect.  

Isn't that the point of traveling?




by Sarah Bond-Yancey

For more pictures of incredible Thailand, check out my travel albums.

Thailand > Ayutthaya > Wat Phutthaisawan 2

'Temple of Lord Buddha of the Heavens' Part 2

Of all the Thai temples I visited, the exquisite Wat Phutthaisawan is one of my favorite architecturally and one of my least favorite historically.

The architecture of the monastery's buildings incorporates several period and regional styles into one visual design feast.

Built in 1353 to celebrate the re-conquering of the Khmer people by Ayutthaya, however, Wat Phutthaisawan was constructed by Khmer slaves forcibly brought to Ayutthaya from Angkor.  Not my favorite temple creation story. 


The central prang (Khmer-influenced stupa) towers over the surrounding buildings of the extensive monastery complex.  In traditional Ayutthaya style, the central prang was built with brick, then covered with white stucco. 


The central prang was restored in the late 1800's, but the white exterior already has black patterning from over a century of rainfall.


Atop the central prang is a Trishul (trident), the mythological weapon of Indra, the Hindu-Buddhist leader of the gods. 


To either side of the central prang are satellite mondops (square-based structures).


The satellite buildings contain massive Buddha sculptures, draped in bright yellow and orange cloths.


The main prang is in the center of a square cloister (an open space surrounded by covered walkways or 'galleries').  The cloister galleries have incredible curved gable roofs in the traditional southeast asian style.


The cloister's gallery walkway furnishes dozens of golden buddhas on gold and mosaic pedestals.


Thanks to an early start and tourist off-season, I was completely alone, slinking through the cloister and around the empty back half of the complex. 


In front of what was once the temple's main entrance (and is now functionally the back), lies the ruins of the old viharn (preaching hall).  



From atop the platform, flicks of orange caught my eye.  Inside a long building just south of the main viharn, a huge reclining buddha slumbers peacefully.


The Buddha sculpture is massive, taking up almost the entire interior of the crumbling building.


Old broken tablet pieces keep the buddha's orange cloth from being swept away by the warm tropical wind.

 
Even the stone securing the Buddha's robe across his chest is carefully wrapped.


I don't know what it was about this place; the deep intimacy of being completely alone with these old buildings, the full array of regional and period architecture available in the complex, or the incredible genius in design that allowed the dilapidating structures to find new beauty in decay.  Whatever it was, Wat Phutthaisawan is one of the places I dream of.





by Sarah Bond-Yancey

For more photos of incredible Thailand, check out the full Wat Phutthaisawan album.

Thailand > Ayutthaya > Wat Phutthaisawan 1

'Temple of Lord Buddha of the Heavens' Part 1


I only had one solid day for tourism in Ayutthaya and a too-long list of places I was dying to see.

While eating deliciously authentic green curry at Sai Thong River Restaurant the previous night, I saw two beautiful white towers on the other side of the river.  Once the sun set, the towers lit up, glowing like beacons amongst the trees.

In the morning, I asked my driver about "white prangs" across the river and, once he finally understood what I was asking, became quite enthusiastic.

Concerned about the time, however, I pointed to his watch and motioned at the places circled on my map.  He pointed to several places I had circled that he considered "not most good" and then pointed to Wat Phutthaisawan, which earned the generous title of "most good."  Figuring he would know better than I would, I was easily swayed.   

When we arrived at the complex, which was much larger than I expected, my driver pointed excitedly at the two prangs: "White prang!  White prang again!  Take you time, be happy!"  Indeed, I will.

Two White Prangs, Wat Phutthaisawan, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Wat Phutthaisawan during construction of the new white prang.
Source: Google Maps Street View

The white tower in the foreground is much smaller and quite new.


It is not a full prang, just a prang-shaped tower on top of a modern Thai building.


The elaborate roof unites the otherwise random architecture of the monastery grounds by integrating several eras of Thai design into one cohesive structure.


The building is guarded by many sculptures, including Naga along the bannister.


Out front, some fabulous plastic roosters greet the visitors and harbor in good fortune.


The interior walkways are lined by chedi rai (small votive stupas) and spirit houses, which welcome the buddha spirits and house ancestors.  Flower wreaths are draped over them to pay respects and bring good fortune.


Behind the more modern buildings up front, several paths wind further into the complex and further into history.






by Sarah Bond-Yancey

For more photos of incredible Thailand, check out the full Wat Phutthaisawan album.

Thailand > Ayutthaya > Wat Chai Watthanaram

'Monastery of the Victorious and Prosperous Temple'

Wat Chai Watthanaram, or the 'Monastery of the Victorious and Prosperous Temple,' is a historical temple complex on the Chao Phraya River in Ayutthaya, Thailand.  Built in the mid-1600's, it was previously partially restored and is currently undergoing further, more intensive restoration.

The entire center of the temple was closed and inaccessible.  I couldn't be too disappointed though; the repairs are much needed.

Wat Chai Watthanaram is one of the most popular tourist sites of Ayutthaya, due to the visible Khmer (Cambodian) influence.  The shape of the main prang (Khmer-style stupa) and layout of the small satellite stupas is reminiscent of the famous ancient Cambodian temple, Angkor Wat.


Surrounding the main prang are eight merus (spired roof halls), some of which grant access to the interior courtyard space.


Though dilapidated, many merus' stucco relief panels are still visible.


In some places, crumbling walls expose inner structure and reveal historical building methods.


The surrounding wall is lined with carved buddha statues, most of which are now missing heads, arms and even entire torsos.


Parts of the wall that are in tact feature incredible false windows with geometric designs. 


In October 2011 Thailand experienced one of it's most massive floods.  One of the only benefits of the disaster, a few lucky photographers were able to capture aerial views of the stunning Wat Chai Watthanaram surrounded by water.

The Wat Chai Watthanaram complex surrounded by flood waters, Ayutthaya province, Thailand
Source: Source: UK Daily Mail Online

The water adds an incredible new dimension to the Khmer-style architecture and emphasizes the similarities between Wat Chai Watthanaram and Cambodia's Angkor Wat (which is surrounded by a massive mote).

An aerial view of a flooded temple at Wat Chaiwatthanaram, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, in Ayutthaya province.
An aerial view of the flooded Wat Chaiwatthanaram central temple, Ayutthaya province, Thailand.
Source: UK Daily Mail Online









Due to Wat Chai Watthanaram's Khmer-style Architecture and Angkor-inspired layout, it is now included along with the rest of Ayutthaya as protected UNESCO World Heritage site.  With huge portions of the complex lost to the jungle climate and looters during the 200+ years that it was abandoned, devoted restoration efforts are the only thing that can keep it from crumbling away entirely.





by Sarah Bond-Yancey

For more photos of incredible Thailand, check out the full Wat Chai Watthanaram album.

Thailand > Ayutthaya > Wat Yai Chaimongkhon

'Great Temple of Auspicious Victory'

Wat Yai Chaimongkhon, or the 'Great Temple of Auspicious Victory,' is a beautifully restored and fully functional monastery from the historical Ayutthaya period of Siam (Thailand).

Great Chedi, Wat Yai Chaimongkhon, Ayutthaya city, Thailand

The viharn (sermon hall) was built in 1357, but the principal chedi (holy monument, pictured above) wasn't constructed until 1592 to commemorate King Naresuan the Great's battle victory against the invading Burmese crown prince.  According to literature of the period, the King slew the prince in single combat atop a war elephant.

  Stairway, Wat Yai Chaimongkhon, Ayutthaya city, Thailand 

After hundreds of years of use, deep grooves are worn into the stone steps of the main chedi.

Temple Steps, Wat Yai Chaimongkhon, Ayutthaya city, Thailand

A precarious ladder snakes up the back of the principal chedi where its specially-fitted traditional yellow cloth is tied.

Ladder to the Top, Wat Yai Chaimongkhon, Ayutthaya, Thailand

The walkway surrounding the top of the chedi overlooks the grounds, which include structures in many stages of dilapidation and restoration.  

North View, Wat Yai Chaimongkhon, Ayutthaya, Thailand

Some structures on the Wat Yai Chaimongkhon grounds are almost 800 years old. 

South View, Wat Yai Chaimongkhon, Ayutthaya, Thailand

Like the chedis, the complex's buddhas are all respectfully draped with traditional yellow cloths.

Row of Buddhas, Wat Yai Chaimongkhon, Ayutthaya, Thailand

The Wat Yai Chaimongkhon complex is a historical gem, which brings a 300-year progression of traditional Thai architecture to life.

Temple Blooming, Wat Yai Chaimongkhon, Ayutthaya, Thailand




by Sarah Bond-Yancey

For more views of incredible Thailand, check out the complete Wat Yai Chaimongkhon album.