Of all the Thai temples I visited, the exquisite Wat Phutthaisawan is one of my favorite architecturally and one of my least favorite historically.The architecture of the monastery's buildings incorporates several period and regional styles into one visual design feast.
Built in 1353 to celebrate the re-conquering of the Khmer people by Ayutthaya, however, Wat Phutthaisawan was constructed by Khmer slaves forcibly brought to Ayutthaya from Angkor. Not my favorite temple creation story.
The central prang (Khmer-influenced stupa) towers over the surrounding buildings of the extensive monastery complex. In traditional Ayutthaya style, the central prang was built with brick, then covered with white stucco.
The central prang was restored in the late 1800's, but the white exterior already has black patterning from over a century of rainfall.
Atop the central prang is a Trishul (trident), the mythological weapon of Indra, the Hindu-Buddhist leader of the gods.
To either side of the central prang are satellite mondops (square-based structures).
The satellite buildings contain massive Buddha sculptures, draped in bright yellow and orange cloths.
The main prang is in the center of a square cloister (an open space surrounded by covered walkways or 'galleries'). The cloister galleries have incredible curved gable roofs in the traditional southeast asian style.
The cloister's gallery walkway furnishes dozens of golden buddhas on gold and mosaic pedestals.
Thanks to an early start and tourist off-season, I was completely alone, slinking through the cloister and around the empty back half of the complex.
In front of what was once the temple's main entrance (and is now functionally the back), lies the ruins of the old viharn (preaching hall).
From atop the platform, flicks of orange caught my eye. Inside a long building just south of the main viharn, a huge reclining buddha slumbers peacefully.
The Buddha sculpture is massive, taking up almost the entire interior of the crumbling building.
Old broken tablet pieces keep the buddha's orange cloth from being swept away by the warm tropical wind.
Even the stone securing the Buddha's robe across his chest is carefully wrapped.
I don't know what it was about this place; the deep intimacy of being completely alone with these old buildings, the full array of regional and period architecture available in the complex, or the incredible genius in design that allowed the dilapidating structures to find new beauty in decay. Whatever it was, Wat Phutthaisawan is one of the places I dream of.
by Sarah Bond-Yancey
For more photos of incredible Thailand, check out the full Wat Phutthaisawan album.
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